Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
